This is a somewhat unusual example of a stainless-steel Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 3800. First retailed in 1989 in Japan, it features an attractive white ridged dial, with the recessed parts having taken on a warm shade that matches the aged tritium-filled white gold hour markers. Another point of distinction is the black date wheel, with white numerals, a feature that is consistent with the watch’s vintage. The watch comes with its Certificate of Origin, a personalised letter and Registered Guarantee Card from Patek Philippe's service centre in Japan (dated 1989), along with a blank service record card, all displayed within a Patek Philippe leather document folio which can be seen in the listing photography.

At the most basic levels, the reference 3800, first revealed in 1981, is a scaled-down version of the original reference 3700 from 1976. It retains many of the elemental features, from the ridged dial to the proportions that made the original such a favourite. It has a case 37.5mm in diameter and just 7.5mm thick, making the reference 3800 one of the easiest wearing of the Nautilus family of references.

Within the remarkable diversity of the reference, this particular example is particularly special. First retailed in 1989 in Japan, as evidenced by the set of paperwork displayed within a Patek Philippe folio that accompanies the watch, this stainless-steel example has an elegant white dial with a black date wheel. Based on our research, black date disks were much more prevalent in examples of the reference 3800 that were made before 1990.  

The white of the dial is segmented by ridges that have taken on a warm hue that matches perfectly with the tritium in the white gold hour markers and baton-style hands. As is to be expected of a ridged dial with precious metal furniture, the dial is signed with the “σ · SWISS · σ” signature at 6 o’clock. Examples of this reference of this particular configuration, produced before 1995, bear one of two sigma signature – “σ · SWISS · σ” or “σ SWISS σ”.

The slim monobloc case, similarly in construction to the 3800, features alternating brushed and polished surfaces with the bezel mirroring the finishing on the closed caseback. Also notable is the visible gasket just under the bezel, that seals the case on the dial side.

The stainless-steel bracelet is well finished, with the brushed links accentuated by polished centre links. The MK II-style clasp is signed ‘Nautilus’, while is the fold over safety features the raised Calatrava Cross motif.

Powering it is the updated ultra-slim in-house calibre 335 SC (for “seconde centrale” or “central second”) that replaced the calibre 28-255C. The calibre 335 SC features 29 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance – adjusted to cold, heat, isochronism, and 5 positions – a self-compensating flat balance spring and shock absorber mechanism. Furthermore, the solid-gold rotor is finished in classic Patek Philippe style, with Geneva stripes.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Patek Philippe Nautilus will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800A is in very good condition throughout. The case shows little signs of wear. While the case retains all the correct brushed and polished finishing, it may been previously polished, though to a very high standard. The bracelet does show light signs of use, with minor stretching. The dial has attractively aged to a warm hue on both the dial itself, the luminous hour markers, and the hands. The luminosity of the hands reacts differently to the dial markers. The watch arrived with a Patek Philippe service sticker on the caseback, which was removed for photography. 

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.